Tiffany & Tot

Bringing love and comfort through sustainable handmade items, while supporting other Canadian small businesses, located in New Brunsick, Canada.

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Tiffany & Tot Policies

Well if that isn’t THE MOST intriguing headline, I don’t know what is! 😛

Honestly, none of these are new, but I wanted to make sure we’re all on the same page when you order from me. As always, if you have any questions just let me know by messaging me on my facebook page, or by emailing me at


It’s the customer’s responsibility to measure correctly. I know my product and I am confident that with proper measurements I can accommodate size correctly. However, incorrect measurements are not my responsibility and I will not be responsible if garments do not fit due to this.

If you’re at all concerned with measuring, please let me know, and if you have any questions about measuring yourself I’m happy to help.


Local pickup is available in Fredericton, New Brunswick, Canada.

At this time, within Canada I do flat rate tracked shipping of $15 CAD and to the United States is $18 CAD. I am open to shipping elsewhere too, but I am not sure what the shipping charges would be.

Custom Order Time Frames and Payment

I accept PayPal, email transfers, and cash for local orders.

For orders using fabric I have in stock, payment is required before I will start cutting into the fabric and sewing. This can be delayed if you like, however payment secures your place in line for having your order completed. Sometimes I have enough flexibility to complete orders quickly, while other times there is a wait time of almost a month. So you are free to delay payment, however it may increase your wait time. Please feel free to contact me through my facebook page ( or email ( for any questions about my current wait time.

For orders requiring more fabric to be ordered, I require full payment up front before I will order fabric. This both covers the cost of the fabric, and secures your place in line for having your order completed (though I would also of course have to wait to receive your fabric).



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Placing a Tiffany & Tot custom order

Tiffany & Tot Custom ShirtSo many options! Fabrics? Patterns? Added details? The sky’s the limit!

But as fun as that can be, it can also be super overwhelming. So here are a few things to keep in mind if you’re interested in talking to me about a custom order. And check here for a look at my policies.

Saw a thing I posted that you loved? Easy peasy.

  1. Show me the picture, or describe it to me.
  2. I’ll check and see if I have more of that fabric, and I’ll let you know what measurements I need. (See below for measurements help.)
  3. Take your measurements so I can confirm I have enough fabric for your size, and let you know the price, along with a list of the specific details around that item.
  4. Don’t want any details changed? DONE!

Saw a thing I posted that you loved, but you want a couple things changed? I’ve got you covered!

  1. Show me the picture, or describe it to me.
  2. I’ll check and see if I have more of that fabric, and I’ll let you know what measurements I need. (See below for measurements help.)
  3. Take your measurements so I can confirm I have enough fabric for your size, and let you know the price of the item in your size with the original options, and I’ll list those options.
  4. Do you want a specific thing changed you already have in mind, and that’s it? Let me know, I’ll let you know the adjusted price, and we’re done!

Intrigued by options, or have an idea in your head you want me to try? There’s a form for that!

LogoLicious_20180Tiffany & Tot Custom Shirt404_153459I have a Google form that walks you through all the options, from sleeves to neckline to length to front detailing and everything in between! And there are pictures!

Up at the top of the form it has a few options of what I’ve done before. You’ll also see options with pictures that you can select, or open ended bits you can fill in yourself if you have a specific idea.

At the end it asks for your email so I can contact you (just about this order, I promise),  it will email me all of your choices, and I’ll get back to you with specific pricing or any other questions I would need answered before I could price it out for you.

Your order could still be tweaked at this point of course, nothing is set in stone until I start cutting out fabric 🙂


Depending on the size, I may not have enough fabric in stock, the pattern I use may not be available in that size, or I may need to buy a different version of the pattern. This also impacts price, as larger sizes use more fabric.

I am very hesitant to do orders based on size alone. Sewing patterns do not always size identically to store-bought sizes, and even in stores, sizes aren’t always the same!

I very much prefer for teen/adult orders to draft to your shape. The patterns I use are suited to different body types, and it may not be identical to yours. You could need one size for chest and another for waist, and another again for hips, and particular for slimmer fitting patterns, these need to be adjusted correctly or a shirt may fit well in the chest, but not through the hips.

Most shirt patterns require CHEST, WAIST, and HIPS (though these may need to be measured in slightly different spots than you would expect). Here are a few tips:

  1. Do NOT use a metal measuring tape. It will be close ish, but not exact. If you don’t have a cloth measuring tape, you could use a towel or blanket THAT HAS NO STRETCH to measure the length, then you could hold that to a metal measuring tape (or anything) to get the measurement.
  2. Wear whatever you would normally wear under the item, if anything. If you want the shirt to fit over clothing, wear an example of that clothing for measuring. If you plan to wear it against the skin, measure directly against the skin, or while wearing a thin fitted top. And if you wear a bra or anything else you would like it to fit precisely, you should wear that while measuring.
  3. Measurements should be parallel to the floor the whole way around. I recommend using a mirror, and/or having someone help you.
  4. All should be measured just barely snug, not tight.
  5. Chest is where you’re biggest around, waist is where you are smallest around, and hips are where you are biggest around (probably not on your actual hip bones, for many it is around the bum).

If you would like some help with measuring or any part of the process of ordering, just let me know! Emailing or sending me a message on my business Facebook page are the best ways to contact me.

Tiffany & Tot Custom Shirt

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Adding a Faux Fly to Apple Tree Sewing’s Grow Along Pants

Grow Along Pants/Leggings with an added faux fly, pattern by Apple Tree Sewing, sewn by Tiffany and Tot

I’ve been wanting to tinker with a faux fly for a while, and considered trying it on the Bunny Bottoms, but I wasn’t sure how it would look with a harem style. But with the Grow Along pants? Perfection!

Apple Tree Sewing is by far my favourite pattern designer. She’s Canadian AND has a range of grow with me patterns, so I was pretty much sold even before I saw how well her instructions are laid out! That’s also why I love taking time to do testing for her new patterns, and why I always suggest her patterns first to customers. I mean who doesn’t want an item to last across multiple sizes?

But I digress.

Adding the Faux Fly

The overall construction for adding a faux fly, at least this way, is mostly similar to the flat assembly method mentioned in the instructions, though not completely identical.

I did the faux fly with moto patches, but it could be just as easily applied to full length pants with or without cuffs, and I’ll mention below the steps and page numbers to follow for each.

And don’t forget to pick up the pattern for the Grow Along pants, just released!

Modifying the Pattern Piece

faux fly pattern pieceFirst we need to modify the pattern piece, and I’ll be referring to the extra bit we’re adding to the pattern as the “fly piece“. I prefer to tape a separate piece of paper on the back so that I can easily fold it out of the way for when I don’t want to use a faux fly.

This is shown on size 3-6 years, so if you’re adding it to a smaller size you may want to adjust it to be a bit smaller. If you look at the curve, you want it to start maybe an inch up from where the crotch seams all meet. It absolutely needs to be above the seam allowance. (Personally I would do an inch away from that point even for smaller sizes.)

Now if you look at the top of the curve, where it would attach to the waistband, it sticks out a teeny bit further than the crotch point below, less than half an inch past that point. (If you have it stick out further it will have very little impact the final look, but it will use more fabric.)

faux fly piece with ruler

Here’s a look at the final piece with a ruler overlaid to give you a better idea of the size, however a different faux fly shape will not change the overall look of the pants. It will only change the depth of the faux fly.

Finally, the top edge needs to line up with the actual pattern piece. I did this by folding the extra fly piece under, with the crease along the straight edge of the crotch seam. You can then trim off any excess at the top.

faux fly piece with seam allowance marked

Cutting out and preparing modified front pieces

Now you’re ready to cut out your two mirrored pieces, and both pieces should be with the extra fly piece.


Pin, right sides together, along the crotch curve, both below the fly piece and along the fly piece. I have it turned around now, so the legs are pointed up, and where the waistband will be attached is at the bottom.

If you’re using a sewing machine (with a strong stretch stitch), this part is easy. Sew along where you’ve just pinned, with the 3/8 inch seam allowance. After you’ve sewn, clip into where the crotch meets the fly piece, about 1/8 inch away from your seam. (Now you can skip a few steps!)

I used a serger, so I needed to do a couple extra steps.

We’ve just pinned. Now clip into where the crotch meets the fly piece, on both layers, but VERY CAREFULLY. We’re clipping now because we can’t after it has been serged. But make you’re only clipping into the seam allowance (2/8 inch MAX).

This picture shows it spread apart so you can see the small clip.

fabric clipped


Now we’ll start serging from the leg end, not the fly end. Use a 3/8 seam allowance to start serging along the crotch curve, but watch you don’t cut into your fly piece.


In theory, your blade will have trimmed off the small amount of only the crotch seam, because we already clipped in to where the crotch curve met the fly piece.

As the fly piece gets closer to the blade, fold the fly fabric to the left, under the presser foot and away from the blade, and finish stitching the crotch curve very carefully, right up to, but not over the folded fly fabric.

on serger needles right up to fabric

Once the needles are very close to the fly fabric (as shown), leave them down into the fabric, lift the presser foot, and unfold the fly fabric. Smooth it out so that the fly fabric is flat and in line where you will be serging.

on serger opened up to sew along fly piece

The seam allowance around the fly fabric isn’t important, as all this will be hidden anyway. So I didn’t trim off any excess fabric as I continued serging along the fly piece.

Now to finish! (Sewing machine users pick back up here)

Now, if you haven’t already, transfer the mark that you made on the pattern piece that is 3/8 inch into the original pattern piece, from the original crotch curve, along where the waistband will be attached. We want to know where the seam would have been if we weren’t sewing a faux fly.


I find it easiest to mark this spot with a pin (not a clip). (Truth be told, it only occurred to me after taking pictures that the mark should be where the seam would have been, not where the fabric would have ended. Oops!)

Once your pin is marking where the seam would have been, you can carefully unfold your fabric, and the pin will hold the layers in place right where you want them. You can now fold the fly to whichever side you like, smoothing out all the layers and still leaving that pin in place.


Now you can pin the other edge of the fly fabric at the top (where the waistband will hit), and then baste those three layers of fabric in place.

pinning excess fly fabric inner seam

Next, pin and then topstitch the faux fly down, similar to topstitching the peekaboo pockets on the Bunnyhug or the Bunny Bottoms. I used a coverstitch, but you could also use a double needle, or any other stretch stitch depending on the finished look you want.


Here is the finished look from the front. If you have topstitching tails (like I do at the bottom of the faux fly from the coverstitch machine), it’s easier to deal with that now rather than once the pants are fully constructed.

And you can now continue on with the flat assembly method! The steps will vary depending on the option you’re doing, but I have them listed below.

I was doing the reversible with moto patches option, so next I added moto patches (steps 4-6 on p. 15-16), then bottom leg pieces (p. 17-18), then side panels just along the outer seam (p. 19-20, but do NOT sew along the inseam), then the back crotch curve (p. 41), then the leg inseam (p. 42), and continue on with the instructions on page 27.

For cuffed with moto patches, add the moto patches (steps 4-6 on p. 15-16), then side panels, then the back crotch curve (p. 41), then continue on with the instructions on page 42.

For reversible without moto patches, simply sew the back crotch curve (p. 41), then the leg inseam (p. 42), and continue on with the instructions on page 27.

For cuffed without moto patches, simply sew the back crotch curve (p. 41), then continue on with the instructions on page 42.

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Northern Rose Fabrics Bunnyhug Sew Along – Wednesday, Feb. 7: Assemble extra animal pieces

As a reminder in case you’ll looking for the pieces and tutorials (below is how I do it but there are other ways too)…

Apple Tree Sewing’s Bunny Ears includes crossover hood pieces for 3-12 months and 9 months – 3 years, as well as instructions on modifying the hood to have a front panel, and bunny ears in the two smaller sizes.

Twig + Tale’s Wild Things Dragon Addon includes wings, dragon ears, rounded spikes, dragon tail, horns, and some instructions on assembly. These instructions are for sewing the pieces together directly rather than turning and topstitching.

Twig + Tale’s Wild Things Reindeer Addon includes antlers and reindeer ears, along with instructions.

Twig + Tale’s Horse Addon includes horse pieces, but isn’t intended for a hoodie so they may need to be modified.

Make It And Love It’s Unicorn horn tutorial includes sewing the horn and attaching it by hand sewing it on to the finished hoodie.

Below is how I do it, and in the comments for today’s task in the Sew Along event in Northern Rose Fabric’s Facebook group I’ll have videos on putting together different pieces as well.

Short version

I find it easiest to “sew on the line”, and not cut anything out in advance, but sew them (just a straight stitch) with fabric right sides together, a layer of felt on either side (against the wrong sides of fabric), and then draw the pattern piece directly on the felt. Make sure to not sew the bottom seam allowance where it will be attached to the hoodie. Trim/clip edges, turn right side out and topstitch, again not sewing the bottom SA.

Longer version:

DON’T CUT THEM OUT YET! Double check a few things:

  • For pieces that need a little structure, but don’t need to stand straight up (like wings, teeth, or tail), one layer of felt should be enough. Any pieces you will want to stand up, you’ll want two layers of felt. (My notes below are for pieces with 2 layers of felt. If you’re only using one layer, omit the bottom layer of felt, and keep the layer of felt that would be on the top of your fabric layers.)
  • I recommend drawing your pieces directly on the felt and sewing on the line. This gives a much cleaner sew line. You can sew with a regular straight stitch, but you may need a bigger needle than you would normally use because you’ll be sewing 2 layers of felt and 2 layers of fabric. If you prefer to cut your fabric front back, and 2 pieces of felt out first however, did you include a seam allowance on your pattern pieces for the outside edges you’ll sew? (Remember that isn’t necessary for sewing on the line.)
  • What about the pattern edge where it will be attached to the hoodie (sewn into the seam, did you include a seam allowance? I recommend a full inch seam allowance along the bottom where pieces will be sewn into the seam. They can be trimmed later if necessary.
  • Are you doing a tail with spikes? Leave cutting this out for last. you can have spikes along it, and you’ll want to do these spikes before the tail itself.
  • In my opinion it’s much easier to assemble the layers of the pieces and sew all at once BEFORE cutting anything out, especially when you need multiple pieces using the same outer fabric. To sew them all at once, place your front and back fabric right sides together. Then layer under it one layer of felt, and over it one layer of felt. Now draw your pattern pieces directly onto the felt, remember to space them enough to cut between them, pin as necessary, but MARK YOUR BOTTOM SEAM ALLOWANCE! (Where the animal piece will attach into the hood.) Do NOT sew this part of the line on your pattern pieces.
  • Clip around the curves, similar to how is recommended on the On The Grow romper or the Drool Bibs patterns. You can also use pinking shears to go around rounded pieces. If your pieces are all straight lines, remember to clip into corners (like inside a V) and trim off excess on points (like the top of the letter A).
  • Turn right side out, press, then topstitch BUT DO NOT TOPSTITCH INTO THE SEAM ALLOWANCE AT THE BOTTOM. You’ll definitely want to consider a bigger needle here if you will be stitching through the inner seam allowance.
  • Admire the exciting pieces you’ve made, giggle as desired.

Do you want any pieces with applique on them?

20180206_145515.jpg(For example, on an ear, a middle colour in the center of the piece for contrast.) These take some more messing around.

  • For these you’ll need to first make sure that there is a seam allowance around the outside of your pattern piece. I prefer to have two pattern pieces, one without a seam allowance and one with a seam allowance.
  • Cut out one layer of felt and one layer of your main fabric (that will be in the background), making sure to use the pattern piece with a seam allowance. Also cut out the decorative bit that you’ll want to add.
  • *If you want you can use a glue stick (or fabric adhesive) to attach the wrong side of the fabric to the felt.
  • Lay the pattern piece without a seam allowance on top of your cut out, right side fabric piece. This will help your properly place the center bit that you want to add. Place (and glue if you want) the smaller piece on the bigger piece.
  • Sew (with a straight stitch, zigzag stitch, or whatever floats your boat) around the edge of the center added bit.
  • Place in the following order, a large piece of felt (bigger than the pattern piece), the fabric for the other side of the animal piece with right side facing up, and then on top your partly made animal piece with the right side facing down and the felt side facing up.
  • MARK YOUR BOTTOM SEAM ALLOWANCE! (Where the animal piece will attach into the hood.) Do NOT sew this part of the line on your pattern pieces.
  • Sew around the outside, except for where that bottom seam allowance will be.
  • Clip around the curves, similar to how is recommended on the On The Grow romper or the Drool Bibs patterns. You can also use pinking shears to go around rounded pieces. If your pieces are all straight lines, remember to clip into corners (like inside a V) and trim off excess on points (like the top of the letter A).
  • Turn right side out, press, then topstitch BUT DO NOT TOPSTITCH INTO THE SEAM ALLOWANCE AT THE BOTTOM. You’ll definitely want to consider a bigger needle here if you will be stitching through the inner seam allowance.
  • Admire the exciting pieces you’ve made, giggle as desired.
Northern Rose Fabrics Bunnyhug Sew Along Planning and Materials Prep

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Northern Rose Fabrics Bunnyhug Sew Along – Feb. 1-4

Welcome to the Northern Rose Fabrics’ Sew Along for Apple Tree Sewing’s Bunnyhug pattern! If you still need the pattern, you can purchase all sizes together, or sizes 3m-6T, or sizes 6-12/13!

LogoLicious_20180131_142103.pngTo join the event, you’ll need to be a part of the Northern Rose Fabrics Facebook group, the sew along event is here, and today’s post is here!

Now, on to today’s prep work!

We’ll be slowly working through the pattern, either as is with a hood and long sleeves, or you can leave off the hood and add a collar or change the long sleeves to short sleeves if you prefer. Also, we’ll be looking at modifying it to add animal features! Ears or wings, a tail or spikes, oh the possibilities, and lots of things to keep in mind!

If you’re making a standard Bunnyhug with either a hood or a collar and no addons, there are lots of fabric possibilities from prints to bases and everything in between! If you do want to try some animal addons though, check below for some things to keep in mind.

Short version:


More than 1″ lost along one side after washing

40% stretch in your fabric, and if you want to add animal pieces, I personally use two layers of felt for any pieces that I want to stand up straight (spikes and some ears), one layer of felt for a little structure (wings, tails and teeth), or just fabric for floppy pieces (like bunny ears).

Felt also needs to be hand washed, the air dried, and then ironed flat before sewing, so you’ll need some time! Here I have an unwashed piece under a washed piece, and the ruler shows how much was lost after washing – you don’t want that happening inside your items!

Long version:

  • Fabric selection
    • Bunnyhug sewn by Honeybee SewingFabric print and/or solids – do you have enough? (And by enough, I really mean more than you think you need in case you make a mistake cutting, sewing, or just underestimate.)
    • Fabric base – As suggested in the pattern, you should look for fabric with at least 40% stretch, and 95% cotton 5% lycra is recommended, particularly for the bands. To check for stretch, see the video below, or hold the fabric (without stretching it) across a long ruler at 0 and 10 (one hand at each). If, while keeping your left hand at 0, you can stretch your right hand to the 14 mark, you have at least 40% stretch. (Stretching to 15 would be 50%, 16 would be 60%, etc.) Also look to see if it recovers well, meaning it goes back to its original shape. If it doesn’t, the item will easily stretch out. If you check in the Facebook event I have a video showing how to find stretch.
  • Fabric planning
    • Fabric layout (which ones go where) – I recommend writing it down, I’ve even gone so far as to list it on sticky notes and/or draw a picture if I’m worried about keeping everything straight (for example, if I’m using a print and a solid and a stripe, or even just a print and a solid on a rough day).
  • FB_IMG_1514897965850.jpgFabric/materials for any extra pieces (spikes, teeth, wings, ears, tail, mane…)
    • Stop right here for a minute, and remember your fabric plans. Carefully consider which pieces are going to fit where on your shirt, and what fabric base (especially thickness) you’re planning on using there. Getting to the end where you’re attaching the waistband to the completely assembled shirt and realizing the tail fabric plus the body fabric on the back makes everything way too bulky because you chose a thick fabric is a devastating place to be. So reconsider where you will be adding decorative bits, what weight fabric would you like to use, and can your machine handle that many layers. If not, try testing it out on scraps, or consider switching to a thinner base in these areas, or attaching extra pieces with snaps or sewing them on differently (for example, above the seam after the item is completed).
    • Think through not only what pieces you’ll want to add, but how you will attach them, whether by sewing into a seam, sewing on separately, or attaching with snaps. If you’ll be sewing pieces into the seams, does the Bunnyhug pattern already have seams in all the right places? Or will you need to do some modifying? If there are pieces needing to be altered (for example, the back body piece needing to have a seam for spikes or wings), I recommend writing it on a sticky note or paper and immediately placing it on top of your fabric – realizing you’ve cut into your beautiful fabric and have forgotten to modify the piece first is another devastating place to be, and I don’t want you to go to that place.
  • Materials prep
    • Bunnyhug/Bunny Bottoms Christmas setMain fabric(s) – are they washed and dry to avoid shrinking and colour running? I wash on cold with a small amount of detergent, and if I want to know if the fabric is going to run I toss in a small scrap of white fabric. Then when it’s finished in the washer I compare the washed white piece to actual white (holding it directly next to something white rather than eyeballing) to see if the colours ran. If they did, I’ll wash it again until I can toss a new scrap in and have it come out white. I also dry in the dryer. If the fabric is going to die or do weird things by being washed normally, I would rather know before sewing it up.
    • For extra bits (spikes, wings, teeth, ears…)
      • Are you using felt to make extra bits stand straight up?
        • It will shrink (did you see the full inch lost in the picture up in the short version?), so it should be hand washed in warm soapy water with a little detergent and laid flat to dry, then ironed to make it flat again. I buy my felt from Wildflower Felt Designs in Nova Scotia, and I follow their suggestions for preparing felt found here (I always desperately want to skip this step, but pieces may go funny if they shrink and your fabric doesn’t, so skippers beware!)
        • For any pieces that you will want to stand up straight, you’ll want 2 layers of felt, whereas other pieces are fine with just one layer of felt for a little structure (like a tail or wings), or can be only outer fabric if you’re wanting them to be floppy (like bunny ears).
      • Do you want broadcloth (which is nice and thin) for covering extra pieces or something else? Fleece for mane?
      • Do you have extra needles on hand in case you break one (or two or three) sewing through multiple layers? And if you’re attaching extra pieces, do you have larger size needles on hand? (I can sometimes get away with 14s, but for pieces I want to stand straight up I use 16s for topstitching and attaching.)
      • Do you want snaps (and reinforcement) so extra pieces are detachable?
      • Do you want some stuffing to make a piece puff out?
      • Do you have more than you think you need of everything, to make sure you won’t run out mid project?

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Tiffany & Tot December NB WAHM Box

Tiffany & Tot Underwear

Tiffany & Tot underwear

I know I know, I need to work on the name, but this way everyone is on the same page, right? 🙂

I decided to do some light research. So I googled:

  • New Brunswick WAHM box
  • Nova Scotia WAHM box
  • Maritime WAHM box
  • Atlantic WAHM box
  • Canada WAHM box
  • WAHM box

I got nothing. Like, actually, I’m not exaggerating, nothing.

Now I’m not saying that a collaborative WAHM box doesn’t exist anywhere in all of Canada, but Google didn’t make it look likely!

I wanted up a monthly underwear box (because seriously, who doesn’t want a super comfy and cute pair of underwear every month made specifically for you – check here for lots of examples and options), but also I know of so many amazing and talented people with their own creative small businesses out there too!

Enter, the Tiffany & Tot December NB WAHM Box.

December we’re going to give it a go! Each box will include a pair of underwear that I’ve made specifically for recipient (based on size, and I’ll ask you a few questions to gauge personal preferences), a piece of jewelry made by Alexandra Torcat Jewelry, and soap made by The Taylored Soap Co. Their items look amazing, and I’m so excited to be partnering with two other New Brunswick WAHMs! (You can read more about each of those creators down below.)

Now for the pricing.

Alexandra Torcat Jewelry

Alexandra Torcat Jewelry – so sweet, and one of her best sellers!

For a pair of low or high rise underwear (not low rise plus) in sizes S-L, the price for all three items including tracked shipping in Canada will be $49 CAD (whereas those three items, separate, would be more than $65!). Each item is discounted and they will all ship together.

And for those low rise plus lovers out there, that is only an additional cost of $2 rather than the normal extra charge of $4.

For sizes XXS-XS, the cost of the box will be $47, and for sizes XL-4X the box will be $53 (both CAD and including tracked shipping).

Additionally, if you’re able to pick up in person in Fredericton, the shipping cost would be taken off, so it would cost $32, $34, or $38 CAD depending on sizing (and not including low rise plus).

How awesome is that?

Ordering and Dates

Ordering will be open from Nov. 8-22nd, I’ll need to be paid by Nov. 22nd AND KNOW PRECISE SIZING, and I’ll be shipping out boxes by Dec. 6th, which according to Canada Post’s website would arrive within 2-7 business days nationally to urban centres (arriving Dec. 8-15th). If you live in a rural area, or would need it earlier than that, please let me know, as we could discuss other possible options.

For December, the “in time for Christmas” boxes will be capped at 15 boxes. If I receive more orders than that, I’ll discuss it with the other makers to see whether it would be possible, but we may not be able to accommodate shipping by Dec. 6th.

If you’ve told me you would like a box, but by Nov. 22nd haven’t paid me and/or have not given me sizing information (if I don’t already have it from a previous order), your order may not ship out by Dec. 6th, and if there were more than 15 people interested with sizing information and payment available, I will bump your order. Now I’ll check in with you first of course before bumping you, but I will need those pieces by Nov. 22nd at the latest.

Christmas Gifts

The Taylored Soap Co.

The Taylored Soap Co. – seriously, their soap looks good enough to eat!

For anyone who has already ordered underwear from me, I already have information about sizing and preferences! If you would be buying for someone and you’re not positive of their size, instead of including the underwear, for Christmas, I could include an IOU underwear certificate in the box with the jewelery and soap, so they could measure themselves and I could mail the underwear after Christmas, however there would be an additional charge for the separate shipping.

Estimating sizing has been done successfully before, however it’s very risky, and if the sizing is off from guessing that would be at your own risk.

And any or all of the items could make great stocking stuffers, whether to the same person, or to different people!

Current Orders

If you’re currently waiting on preorder fabric for a pair of underwear, I would be happy to switch your order to a box for the price difference, however I may not be able to ship out Dec. 6th if I don’t have the fabric in time.

Underwear Options

You can see all the options and examples here, but if you don’t want to make all the decisions, the only information I REALLY need is the size, unless I’ve already made the person underwear before. Specifically:

*Full hip – wherever the person is widest around, maybe around hips, maybe around bum, maybe somewhere in between – this one is absolutely necessary (unless you’re comfortable with guessing and taking full responsibility if the underwear doesn’t fit well). The measuring tape should be parallel to the ground the whole way around.

Low waist/high hip – the measurement approx 3″ below the bellybutton, right around where the hip bones are – this one is helpful, but not strictly necessary. The measuring tape should be parallel to the ground the whole way around.

Besides that, there are a couple options to consider, which you can see examples of here:

  1. Do you want me to make all the decisions (especially if the person has ordered from me before)? If so, ignore the following questions.
  2. Rise – low rise, high rise, or low rise plus? (Low rise plus costs an extra $2 for the box.)
  3. Style – surprise, less coverage, moderate coverage, or more coverage?
  4. Print – surprise, festive, or not festive?

Alexandra Torcat Jewelry

Alexandra Torcat JewelryBeautiful, meaningful and inspiring handmade jewelry.

Alexandra Torcat, in Cambridge-Narrows, New Brunswick, specializes in creating unique handcrafted jewelry made with Freshwater Pearls, semi-precious stones and Swarovski crystals.

Her designs are all made with 14K Gold filled and Sterling Silver. “Gold Filled” is an actual layer of gold-pressure bonded to another material (brass). It is more than 50 times thicker than regular gold plating and it is much more valuable and tarnish resistant. It can last many years or even decades of frequent wear. It doesn’t flake off, rub off or turn colours. It is nickel free and safe on sensitive skin.

To see her beautiful jewelry, you can check Etsy or Instagram

The Taylored Soap Co.

The Taylored Soap Co

Handmade Soap & Bath Products

Krista Taylor, in Fredericton, New Brunswick, has been dabbling in natural remedies and herbs since she was in high school, making soaps, liniments and lotions for herself and friends/family as a hobby. She started selling her soap products in 2010, and since then her business has grown to enable her to hire her 16 year old daughter Kaitlyn who creates for the business as well.

All of their products are made in small batches by Krista (Kaitlyn for the bombs) which is why no two products look exactly the same.

Here are some highlights about their products:

  • fragrances are phthalate and paraben free
  • glitter are cosmetic grade, skin safe and biodegradable
  • micas are all vegan and cruelty free
  • only sustainable palm oil is used

To learn more about their fantastic products, you can check FacebookEtsy, or Instagram @thetayloredsoapco

Tiffany & Tot

T and T name blueBringing love and comfort through sustainable handmade items, while supporting other Canadian small businesses.

In case you forgot my business mission statement (or haven’t seen it before), are you starting to see how this all fits together? 🙂

I’m located in Fredericton, New Brunswick, and I don’t just sell underwear either. Wipeable diaper covers, drool bibs, grow with me clothing, cloth pads…and custom orders too where someone will say, “Hey, can you ________?”

You can read all about why I’m doing what I’m doing, as well as a bit more about me.

To see more of my stuff or contact me, you can contact me here, I’m on Facebook and Instagram @tiffanyandtot

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Tiffany & Tot’s Mission

For some time now I’ve been wanting to focus my business a little more. There are certain elements of my business that I’m really passionate about, and I realized I haven’t really been communicating them consistently! So here’s what’s important to me, and why I’m doing what I do in my small business.

My mission statement, and how I decide what to spend my time and energy on, is:

Bringing love and comfort through sustainable handmade items, while supporting other Canadian small businesses.


The fabric used is strikeoffs, to help promote Northern Rose Fabrics, a Canadian small business, and it’s quality fabric that washes well and still looks great after numerous washes. The body of the hoodie is the “Bunnyhug” pattern made by Apple Tree Sewing, a Canadian designer, and it’s in grow-with-me sizing which will last through sizes 3T-6.

And whatever reaction you’re having to that mission statement, whether you think it’s too corny or silly or simply naive, yup, that’s me. 🙂

But in case you’re not following my train of thought, here’s what I mean:

Bringing love and comfort
– physical comfort: through comfortable clothing
– emotional comfort: items are sewn with care, and are crafted to suit the individual’s personal needs through sizing, style, colours and prints


Underwear to suit exactly what a customer wants, made from fabric sourced from Black Rabbit Fabric, a Canadian small business, and it’s high quality fabric which holds up great over numerous washes.

Sustainable handmade items
– high quality fabric that remains vibrant and looks great even after numerous washes
– sewn by me from patterns and fabrics which have been tested for quality
– reusable (rather than disposable) items to cut down on waste
– grow-with-me children’s clothing that lasts much longer than sized items

Supporting other Canadian small businesses
– fabric sourced from Canadian small businesses
– some patterns designed in Canada by Canadian small businesses



The “On the Grow” romper pattern by Canadian designer Apple Tree Sewing, who I regularly do testing for to help make sure the pattern is ready before it’s released. It’s in grow-with-me sizing, lasting across sizes 3T-6, and it’s sewn with custom fabric from Black Rabbit Fabric, a Canadian small business. And these fabrics are tested not just in the wash, but thoroughly by my son, family, and others who have partnered with me to test my products.

For example,
a grow-with-me hoodie (pattern designed in Canada) that will last a baby/child through multiple sizes (ex. 3T-6), and expresses the personal interests of the parents and/or child through prints and colours
comfortable underwear that fits a new mom well with an extra tall waistband to create comfortable compression, and in a cut that suits her well, to help her feel like “her” again
cloth menstrual/incontinence pads or nursing pads that save a person money over time as they are reused, and express the personality of the person using them
underwear (or other items) that helps an individual who is transgender to better express themself, while remaining comfortable and allowing for personal customization
wipeable cloth diapers (pattern designed by me) that can be reused between washes, extending their reusability even further


A cloth menstrual/incontinence pad, made to suit a customer based on her individual preferences of shape, length, fabric preference, and print, using fabric sourced from The Fabric Snob and Canadian Fluff Supply, both of which are Canadian small businesses. Rather than tossing after one use, it can be reused after washing in the washing machine, saving money and reducing waste.

And that’s that! At this point all my fabric is being sourced from Canadian small businesses (AND it’s high quality), and my diapers and grow-with-me clothing are all created using patterns made by Canadian small businesses.

Bottom line, supporting others, whether other small business owners, or my customers, is really important to me. So if I can help you feel extra cared for by meeting a particular need, or if I can include other Canadian small businesses in the process of meeting that need, then it’s been a very good day. 🙂

(And yes, super corny, that’s me!)