Tiffany & Tot

Bringing love and comfort through sustainable handmade items, while supporting other Canadian small businesses, located in New Brunsick, Canada.


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Tiffany & Tot Policies

Well if that isn’t THE MOST intriguing headline, I don’t know what is! 😛

Honestly, none of these are new, but I wanted to make sure we’re all on the same page when you order from me. As always, if you have any questions just let me know by messaging me on my facebook page, or by emailing me at tiffanyandtot@gmail.com

Measurements

It’s the customer’s responsibility to measure correctly. I know my product and I am confident that with proper measurements I can accommodate size correctly. However, incorrect measurements are not my responsibility and I will not be responsible if garments do not fit due to this.

If you’re at all concerned with measuring, please let me know, and if you have any questions about measuring yourself I’m happy to help.

Shipping

Local pickup is available in Fredericton, New Brunswick, Canada.

At this time, within Canada I do flat rate tracked shipping of $15 CAD and to the United States is $18 CAD. I am open to shipping elsewhere too, but I am not sure what the shipping charges would be.

Custom Order Time Frames and Payment

I accept PayPal, email transfers, and cash for local orders.

For orders using fabric I have in stock, payment is required before I will start cutting into the fabric and sewing. This can be delayed if you like, however payment secures your place in line for having your order completed. Sometimes I have enough flexibility to complete orders quickly, while other times there is a wait time of almost a month. So you are free to delay payment, however it may increase your wait time. Please feel free to contact me through my facebook page (facebook.com/tiffanyandtot) or email (tiffanyandtot@gmail.com) for any questions about my current wait time.

For orders requiring more fabric to be ordered, I require full payment up front before I will order fabric. This both covers the cost of the fabric, and secures your place in line for having your order completed (though I would also of course have to wait to receive your fabric).

 

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Adding a Faux Fly to Apple Tree Sewing’s Grow Along Pants

Grow Along Pants/Leggings with an added faux fly, pattern by Apple Tree Sewing, sewn by Tiffany and Tot

I’ve been wanting to tinker with a faux fly for a while, and considered trying it on the Bunny Bottoms, but I wasn’t sure how it would look with a harem style. But with the Grow Along pants? Perfection!

Apple Tree Sewing is by far my favourite pattern designer. She’s Canadian AND has a range of grow with me patterns, so I was pretty much sold even before I saw how well her instructions are laid out! That’s also why I love taking time to do testing for her new patterns, and why I always suggest her patterns first to customers. I mean who doesn’t want an item to last across multiple sizes?

But I digress.

Adding the Faux Fly

The overall construction for adding a faux fly, at least this way, is mostly similar to the flat assembly method mentioned in the instructions, though not completely identical.

I did the faux fly with moto patches, but it could be just as easily applied to full length pants with or without cuffs, and I’ll mention below the steps and page numbers to follow for each.

And don’t forget to pick up the pattern for the Grow Along pants, just released!

Modifying the Pattern Piece

faux fly pattern pieceFirst we need to modify the pattern piece, and I’ll be referring to the extra bit we’re adding to the pattern as the “fly piece“. I prefer to tape a separate piece of paper on the back so that I can easily fold it out of the way for when I don’t want to use a faux fly.

This is shown on size 3-6 years, so if you’re adding it to a smaller size you may want to adjust it to be a bit smaller. If you look at the curve, you want it to start maybe an inch up from where the crotch seams all meet. It absolutely needs to be above the seam allowance. (Personally I would do an inch away from that point even for smaller sizes.)

Now if you look at the top of the curve, where it would attach to the waistband, it sticks out a teeny bit further than the crotch point below, less than half an inch past that point. (If you have it stick out further it will have very little impact the final look, but it will use more fabric.)

faux fly piece with ruler

Here’s a look at the final piece with a ruler overlaid to give you a better idea of the size, however a different faux fly shape will not change the overall look of the pants. It will only change the depth of the faux fly.

Finally, the top edge needs to line up with the actual pattern piece. I did this by folding the extra fly piece under, with the crease along the straight edge of the crotch seam. You can then trim off any excess at the top.

faux fly piece with seam allowance marked

Cutting out and preparing modified front pieces

Now you’re ready to cut out your two mirrored pieces, and both pieces should be with the extra fly piece.

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Pin, right sides together, along the crotch curve, both below the fly piece and along the fly piece. I have it turned around now, so the legs are pointed up, and where the waistband will be attached is at the bottom.

If you’re using a sewing machine (with a strong stretch stitch), this part is easy. Sew along where you’ve just pinned, with the 3/8 inch seam allowance. After you’ve sewn, clip into where the crotch meets the fly piece, about 1/8 inch away from your seam. (Now you can skip a few steps!)

I used a serger, so I needed to do a couple extra steps.

We’ve just pinned. Now clip into where the crotch meets the fly piece, on both layers, but VERY CAREFULLY. We’re clipping now because we can’t after it has been serged. But make you’re only clipping into the seam allowance (2/8 inch MAX).

This picture shows it spread apart so you can see the small clip.

fabric clipped

 

Now we’ll start serging from the leg end, not the fly end. Use a 3/8 seam allowance to start serging along the crotch curve, but watch you don’t cut into your fly piece.

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In theory, your blade will have trimmed off the small amount of only the crotch seam, because we already clipped in to where the crotch curve met the fly piece.

As the fly piece gets closer to the blade, fold the fly fabric to the left, under the presser foot and away from the blade, and finish stitching the crotch curve very carefully, right up to, but not over the folded fly fabric.

on serger needles right up to fabric

Once the needles are very close to the fly fabric (as shown), leave them down into the fabric, lift the presser foot, and unfold the fly fabric. Smooth it out so that the fly fabric is flat and in line where you will be serging.

on serger opened up to sew along fly piece

The seam allowance around the fly fabric isn’t important, as all this will be hidden anyway. So I didn’t trim off any excess fabric as I continued serging along the fly piece.

Now to finish! (Sewing machine users pick back up here)

Now, if you haven’t already, transfer the mark that you made on the pattern piece that is 3/8 inch into the original pattern piece, from the original crotch curve, along where the waistband will be attached. We want to know where the seam would have been if we weren’t sewing a faux fly.

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I find it easiest to mark this spot with a pin (not a clip). (Truth be told, it only occurred to me after taking pictures that the mark should be where the seam would have been, not where the fabric would have ended. Oops!)

Once your pin is marking where the seam would have been, you can carefully unfold your fabric, and the pin will hold the layers in place right where you want them. You can now fold the fly to whichever side you like, smoothing out all the layers and still leaving that pin in place.

19-fabric-opened-up-showing-fly-fabric-pushed-to-one-side.jpg

Now you can pin the other edge of the fly fabric at the top (where the waistband will hit), and then baste those three layers of fabric in place.

pinning excess fly fabric inner seam

Next, pin and then topstitch the faux fly down, similar to topstitching the peekaboo pockets on the Bunnyhug or the Bunny Bottoms. I used a coverstitch, but you could also use a double needle, or any other stretch stitch depending on the finished look you want.

24-excess-fly-fabric-topstitched-from-the-front.jpg

Here is the finished look from the front. If you have topstitching tails (like I do at the bottom of the faux fly from the coverstitch machine), it’s easier to deal with that now rather than once the pants are fully constructed.

And you can now continue on with the flat assembly method! The steps will vary depending on the option you’re doing, but I have them listed below.

I was doing the reversible with moto patches option, so next I added moto patches (steps 4-6 on p. 15-16), then bottom leg pieces (p. 17-18), then side panels just along the outer seam (p. 19-20, but do NOT sew along the inseam), then the back crotch curve (p. 41), then the leg inseam (p. 42), and continue on with the instructions on page 27.

For cuffed with moto patches, add the moto patches (steps 4-6 on p. 15-16), then side panels, then the back crotch curve (p. 41), then continue on with the instructions on page 42.

For reversible without moto patches, simply sew the back crotch curve (p. 41), then the leg inseam (p. 42), and continue on with the instructions on page 27.

For cuffed without moto patches, simply sew the back crotch curve (p. 41), then continue on with the instructions on page 42.


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Northern Rose Fabrics Bunnyhug Sew Along – Wednesday, Feb. 7: Assemble extra animal pieces

As a reminder in case you’ll looking for the pieces and tutorials (below is how I do it but there are other ways too)…

Apple Tree Sewing’s Bunny Ears includes crossover hood pieces for 3-12 months and 9 months – 3 years, as well as instructions on modifying the hood to have a front panel, and bunny ears in the two smaller sizes.

Twig + Tale’s Wild Things Dragon Addon includes wings, dragon ears, rounded spikes, dragon tail, horns, and some instructions on assembly. These instructions are for sewing the pieces together directly rather than turning and topstitching.

Twig + Tale’s Wild Things Reindeer Addon includes antlers and reindeer ears, along with instructions.

Twig + Tale’s Horse Addon includes horse pieces, but isn’t intended for a hoodie so they may need to be modified.

Make It And Love It’s Unicorn horn tutorial includes sewing the horn and attaching it by hand sewing it on to the finished hoodie.

Below is how I do it, and in the comments for today’s task in the Sew Along event in Northern Rose Fabric’s Facebook group I’ll have videos on putting together different pieces as well.

Short version

I find it easiest to “sew on the line”, and not cut anything out in advance, but sew them (just a straight stitch) with fabric right sides together, a layer of felt on either side (against the wrong sides of fabric), and then draw the pattern piece directly on the felt. Make sure to not sew the bottom seam allowance where it will be attached to the hoodie. Trim/clip edges, turn right side out and topstitch, again not sewing the bottom SA.

Longer version:

DON’T CUT THEM OUT YET! Double check a few things:

  • For pieces that need a little structure, but don’t need to stand straight up (like wings, teeth, or tail), one layer of felt should be enough. Any pieces you will want to stand up, you’ll want two layers of felt. (My notes below are for pieces with 2 layers of felt. If you’re only using one layer, omit the bottom layer of felt, and keep the layer of felt that would be on the top of your fabric layers.)
  • I recommend drawing your pieces directly on the felt and sewing on the line. This gives a much cleaner sew line. You can sew with a regular straight stitch, but you may need a bigger needle than you would normally use because you’ll be sewing 2 layers of felt and 2 layers of fabric. If you prefer to cut your fabric front back, and 2 pieces of felt out first however, did you include a seam allowance on your pattern pieces for the outside edges you’ll sew? (Remember that isn’t necessary for sewing on the line.)
  • What about the pattern edge where it will be attached to the hoodie (sewn into the seam, did you include a seam allowance? I recommend a full inch seam allowance along the bottom where pieces will be sewn into the seam. They can be trimmed later if necessary.
  • Are you doing a tail with spikes? Leave cutting this out for last. you can have spikes along it, and you’ll want to do these spikes before the tail itself.
  • In my opinion it’s much easier to assemble the layers of the pieces and sew all at once BEFORE cutting anything out, especially when you need multiple pieces using the same outer fabric. To sew them all at once, place your front and back fabric right sides together. Then layer under it one layer of felt, and over it one layer of felt. Now draw your pattern pieces directly onto the felt, remember to space them enough to cut between them, pin as necessary, but MARK YOUR BOTTOM SEAM ALLOWANCE! (Where the animal piece will attach into the hood.) Do NOT sew this part of the line on your pattern pieces.
  • Clip around the curves, similar to how is recommended on the On The Grow romper or the Drool Bibs patterns. You can also use pinking shears to go around rounded pieces. If your pieces are all straight lines, remember to clip into corners (like inside a V) and trim off excess on points (like the top of the letter A).
  • Turn right side out, press, then topstitch BUT DO NOT TOPSTITCH INTO THE SEAM ALLOWANCE AT THE BOTTOM. You’ll definitely want to consider a bigger needle here if you will be stitching through the inner seam allowance.
  • Admire the exciting pieces you’ve made, giggle as desired.

Do you want any pieces with applique on them?

20180206_145515.jpg(For example, on an ear, a middle colour in the center of the piece for contrast.) These take some more messing around.

  • For these you’ll need to first make sure that there is a seam allowance around the outside of your pattern piece. I prefer to have two pattern pieces, one without a seam allowance and one with a seam allowance.
  • Cut out one layer of felt and one layer of your main fabric (that will be in the background), making sure to use the pattern piece with a seam allowance. Also cut out the decorative bit that you’ll want to add.
  • *If you want you can use a glue stick (or fabric adhesive) to attach the wrong side of the fabric to the felt.
  • Lay the pattern piece without a seam allowance on top of your cut out, right side fabric piece. This will help your properly place the center bit that you want to add. Place (and glue if you want) the smaller piece on the bigger piece.
  • Sew (with a straight stitch, zigzag stitch, or whatever floats your boat) around the edge of the center added bit.
  • Place in the following order, a large piece of felt (bigger than the pattern piece), the fabric for the other side of the animal piece with right side facing up, and then on top your partly made animal piece with the right side facing down and the felt side facing up.
  • MARK YOUR BOTTOM SEAM ALLOWANCE! (Where the animal piece will attach into the hood.) Do NOT sew this part of the line on your pattern pieces.
  • Sew around the outside, except for where that bottom seam allowance will be.
  • Clip around the curves, similar to how is recommended on the On The Grow romper or the Drool Bibs patterns. You can also use pinking shears to go around rounded pieces. If your pieces are all straight lines, remember to clip into corners (like inside a V) and trim off excess on points (like the top of the letter A).
  • Turn right side out, press, then topstitch BUT DO NOT TOPSTITCH INTO THE SEAM ALLOWANCE AT THE BOTTOM. You’ll definitely want to consider a bigger needle here if you will be stitching through the inner seam allowance.
  • Admire the exciting pieces you’ve made, giggle as desired.
Northern Rose Fabrics Bunnyhug Sew Along Planning and Materials Prep


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Northern Rose Fabrics Bunnyhug Sew Along – Feb. 1-4

Welcome to the Northern Rose Fabrics’ Sew Along for Apple Tree Sewing’s Bunnyhug pattern! If you still need the pattern, you can purchase all sizes together, or sizes 3m-6T, or sizes 6-12/13!

LogoLicious_20180131_142103.pngTo join the event, you’ll need to be a part of the Northern Rose Fabrics Facebook group, the sew along event is here, and today’s post is here!

Now, on to today’s prep work!

We’ll be slowly working through the pattern, either as is with a hood and long sleeves, or you can leave off the hood and add a collar or change the long sleeves to short sleeves if you prefer. Also, we’ll be looking at modifying it to add animal features! Ears or wings, a tail or spikes, oh the possibilities, and lots of things to keep in mind!

If you’re making a standard Bunnyhug with either a hood or a collar and no addons, there are lots of fabric possibilities from prints to bases and everything in between! If you do want to try some animal addons though, check below for some things to keep in mind.

Short version:

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More than 1″ lost along one side after washing

40% stretch in your fabric, and if you want to add animal pieces, I personally use two layers of felt for any pieces that I want to stand up straight (spikes and some ears), one layer of felt for a little structure (wings, tails and teeth), or just fabric for floppy pieces (like bunny ears).

Felt also needs to be hand washed, the air dried, and then ironed flat before sewing, so you’ll need some time! Here I have an unwashed piece under a washed piece, and the ruler shows how much was lost after washing – you don’t want that happening inside your items!

Long version:

  • Fabric selection
    • Bunnyhug sewn by Honeybee SewingFabric print and/or solids – do you have enough? (And by enough, I really mean more than you think you need in case you make a mistake cutting, sewing, or just underestimate.)
    • Fabric base – As suggested in the pattern, you should look for fabric with at least 40% stretch, and 95% cotton 5% lycra is recommended, particularly for the bands. To check for stretch, see the video below, or hold the fabric (without stretching it) across a long ruler at 0 and 10 (one hand at each). If, while keeping your left hand at 0, you can stretch your right hand to the 14 mark, you have at least 40% stretch. (Stretching to 15 would be 50%, 16 would be 60%, etc.) Also look to see if it recovers well, meaning it goes back to its original shape. If it doesn’t, the item will easily stretch out. If you check in the Facebook event I have a video showing how to find stretch.
  • Fabric planning
    • Fabric layout (which ones go where) – I recommend writing it down, I’ve even gone so far as to list it on sticky notes and/or draw a picture if I’m worried about keeping everything straight (for example, if I’m using a print and a solid and a stripe, or even just a print and a solid on a rough day).
  • FB_IMG_1514897965850.jpgFabric/materials for any extra pieces (spikes, teeth, wings, ears, tail, mane…)
    • Stop right here for a minute, and remember your fabric plans. Carefully consider which pieces are going to fit where on your shirt, and what fabric base (especially thickness) you’re planning on using there. Getting to the end where you’re attaching the waistband to the completely assembled shirt and realizing the tail fabric plus the body fabric on the back makes everything way too bulky because you chose a thick fabric is a devastating place to be. So reconsider where you will be adding decorative bits, what weight fabric would you like to use, and can your machine handle that many layers. If not, try testing it out on scraps, or consider switching to a thinner base in these areas, or attaching extra pieces with snaps or sewing them on differently (for example, above the seam after the item is completed).
    • Think through not only what pieces you’ll want to add, but how you will attach them, whether by sewing into a seam, sewing on separately, or attaching with snaps. If you’ll be sewing pieces into the seams, does the Bunnyhug pattern already have seams in all the right places? Or will you need to do some modifying? If there are pieces needing to be altered (for example, the back body piece needing to have a seam for spikes or wings), I recommend writing it on a sticky note or paper and immediately placing it on top of your fabric – realizing you’ve cut into your beautiful fabric and have forgotten to modify the piece first is another devastating place to be, and I don’t want you to go to that place.
  • Materials prep
    • Bunnyhug/Bunny Bottoms Christmas setMain fabric(s) – are they washed and dry to avoid shrinking and colour running? I wash on cold with a small amount of detergent, and if I want to know if the fabric is going to run I toss in a small scrap of white fabric. Then when it’s finished in the washer I compare the washed white piece to actual white (holding it directly next to something white rather than eyeballing) to see if the colours ran. If they did, I’ll wash it again until I can toss a new scrap in and have it come out white. I also dry in the dryer. If the fabric is going to die or do weird things by being washed normally, I would rather know before sewing it up.
    • For extra bits (spikes, wings, teeth, ears…)
      • Are you using felt to make extra bits stand straight up?
        • It will shrink (did you see the full inch lost in the picture up in the short version?), so it should be hand washed in warm soapy water with a little detergent and laid flat to dry, then ironed to make it flat again. I buy my felt from Wildflower Felt Designs in Nova Scotia, and I follow their suggestions for preparing felt found here (I always desperately want to skip this step, but pieces may go funny if they shrink and your fabric doesn’t, so skippers beware!)
        • For any pieces that you will want to stand up straight, you’ll want 2 layers of felt, whereas other pieces are fine with just one layer of felt for a little structure (like a tail or wings), or can be only outer fabric if you’re wanting them to be floppy (like bunny ears).
      • Do you want broadcloth (which is nice and thin) for covering extra pieces or something else? Fleece for mane?
      • Do you have extra needles on hand in case you break one (or two or three) sewing through multiple layers? And if you’re attaching extra pieces, do you have larger size needles on hand? (I can sometimes get away with 14s, but for pieces I want to stand straight up I use 16s for topstitching and attaching.)
      • Do you want snaps (and reinforcement) so extra pieces are detachable?
      • Do you want some stuffing to make a piece puff out?
      • Do you have more than you think you need of everything, to make sure you won’t run out mid project?


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My Grow With Me Pants Options

Did I have you sold from my last post about how grow with me options are awesome? You can find it here if you missed out.

Today I’ll be explaining the 3  different grow with me pants options that I sell, and like everything, there are pros and cons flying around everywhere! 🙂

Personally I prefer the Apple Tree Bunny Bottoms pattern (looked at in this post). Super cute, biggest size range, a gusset for easier movement, can also be shorts, lots of decorative options, and Apple Tree Sewing Patterns is a Canadian small business! Plus, if you go with the smallest size, even though they would be large at birth, they would last much longer (12 months) than the other pants (6 months).

Everyone is different however, and the other patterns do have their benefits. All are cloth diaper friendly except for a single option of the Monster Bunz pattern (because that one technically has 4 fit options). Pros and cons of each design below, and check here for help on rolling up the cuffs.

Bunny Bottoms (pattern by Apple Tree Sewing)

Slim(ish) harem pants, fit similar to jogging pants.

Pros:

  • biggest size range, up to size 6 (3-12 months, 9 months – 3T, and 3T-6)
  • added gusset for extra movement (so less stress on the seams, and it drapes nicely)
  • pants or shorts (shorts can be cuffed or be hemmed)
  • 3 pocket options (slit, peek-a-boo or kangaroo)
  • faux drawstring option

Cons:

  • more expensive – the gusset, pockets and drawstring take more time and increase the price appropriately

For an in-depth look at all the options, and lots of pictures, check out this post.

Monster Bunz (pattern by Opulent Monsters)

These fit more similar to leggings, though depending on the option chosen they may be snug or slightly looser as shown above. The options mostly decide themselves depending on if you want a “bum circle” (which acts like a gusset and creates more room for a cloth diaper), and if you want them to be more on the snug side or on the  slightly looser side.

Pros:

  • 4 fit options, from leggings to fairly fitted jogging pants
  • can be sewn with or without a “bum circle” (with it creates a better fit over cloth diapers, without it reduces the cost of the pants)
  • smaller sizes available (preemie, tiny newborn, and newborn)
  • sizes up to 4 years (0-6 months, 3-18 months, 1-4 years)
  • there is a size starting at birth

Cons:

  • slimmer through the hips, so while possible, pockets wouldn’t be recommended (and are not possible with 3 of the 4 styles)

P is for Pirate Harem Pants (pattern by Hatchlings Patterns)

These are a very quick sew, so less expensive, and they do have a fair bit of room for a cloth diaper. Good for a newborn, especially if they’re a slow gainer.  You’ll see in the “cons”, that I have limited sizing in there, though there is a larger size available that’s 6 months-4T. I debated getting it, but I’m so in love with the Bunny Bottoms that I didn’t want to buy another harem pants pattern needlessly. While I haven’t compared them personally (since I don’t have the larger size of this one), I worry that there might be too much stress on the crotch seam too with this one, since there isn’t a gusset to allow for more movement (like the Bunny Bottoms). But I do still think this would be my pick if looking for pants for a preemie or newborn (keeping in mind that they likely would grow out of them very quickly).

Pros:

  • less expensive
  • there is a size starting at birth
  • a baggy harem means room for a cloth diaper

Cons:

  • only one size, 0-6 months

 

And that’s that! My pick is definitely the Bunny Bottoms. What do you think? Did I miss any pros or cons?


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You’re not “good enough”. You’re fricken awesome.

If I’m perfectly honest, this is for me just as much as it’s for you.

And I know it’s a little off topic in some ways for me, but it’s also essential to all of us in ways that actually matter.

As far as I can tell, it seems like most people feel inadequate a whole lot of the time. If this doesn’t apply to you, that’s amazing! But most people I’ve even surface spoken with seem to feel like they’re not good enough in one way or another.

On my good days, if I can get myself to believe I’m “good enough”, whether for my family, friends, work, whatever, I’m doing pretty well. And that seems to be the goal of others I’ve known too.

But seriously? That’s crap. You’re not “good enough”. You’re SO much more!

I know I don’t know your situation. And even if you know me, you probably don’t know all of mine. But I really believe that you’re fricken awesome. Whatever that dumbass in your head is telling you, (you know, the one you let convince you that you’re not good enough), he’s a jerk and needs to go. Because you’re so, SO much more than good enough.

And please believe me when I say that I know that’s WAY easier said than done. But it doesn’t make it any less true.

You’re not good enough. You’re fricken awesome. And it’s high time we all start believing it.

Northern Rose Fabric preorder


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Northern Rose Fabrics Review – (Short version, it’s amazing!)

Northern Rose Fabrics Under the Sea strikeoff

Northern Rose Fabrics is a new Canadian small business offering custom prints on 95% cotton 5% lycra fabric. Owned and run by Samantha Gowanlock in Alberta, she’s currently running a pre-order of 10 gorgeous prints. Pre-order specifics and the nitty gritty will be at the end, but her prints are fantastic – you’ve been warned. Almost as soon as I posted her pre-order options to my facebook page I had an order for multiple items using her prints! She also has a monthly giveaway in her Facebook group, so make sure to check it out, and the current giveaway information is below with the preorder details.

Northern Rose FabricsI was selected to be a strikeoff seamstress for her, meaning I got to test out some of her fabric. The short version is that it’s amazing! No word of a lie, when I first showed it to my son, his eyes got really big, he gasped and excitedly exclaimed “Oooooh! THIS fabric!!!! Here’s what I’ve noticed with the strikeoff I sewed up, “Under the Sea”:

  • really soft to the touch
  • great colours, as vibrant as the pictures appear on my screen
  • no fading after a prewash with detergent (I cut off a sample to compare)Northern Rose Fabrics Strikeoff
  • the colours in the “Under the Sea” print didn’t seem to run at all – I tossed a white sock in the washer with it and the sock didn’t change colour even slightly
  • sewed up nicely

I’m honestly really happy with the fabric quality, and I can’t wait to buy more!

Preorder Details

Northern Rose Fabric preorder

The current pre-order closes on May 21st, so make sure your orders are in before then. Pre-order price is $25.50CAD and retail price will be $29.50CAD, invoiced in Canadian dollars and cut by the metre. The fabric has 4 way stretch, is digitally printed, is approximately 59″ wide and is a nice medium weight at 250gsm. There is a layaway option, shipping within Canada is a flat rate of $15CAD, and prices for shipping elsewhere are available on her Facebook page. Finally, everyone who preorders will be automatically entered for a giveaway bundle of 5 free fat halves!! What’s not to love??

Update May 12, 2017 – I’ve now washed one of the items I made at least 10 times. I’m happy to report it still looks great!!!